Men's hair autumn/winter 2026-27: messy is the new neat

For years we got used to seeing perfect men’s haircuts. Razor-precise fades, immobile quiffs, hair that seemed to stay in exactly the same spot from morning to night. Then something changed. For autumn/winter 2026-27, men’s hair relaxes. It becomes softer, wavier, even tousled. But be careful: that does not mean getting out of bed and walking out the door like that. The right word is naturalness. The carefully studied kind. Because there is a big difference between hair that falls badly and a cut built to look spontaneous. And that is exactly where the barber’s work comes in.

What does the tousled look really mean?

Messy yes. Scruffy no.

On the autumn/winter 2026-27 runways we saw hair with more volume, natural textures and apparently out-of-place locks. Hermès, Prada and Zegna are just some of the brands that brought this aesthetic into their menswear collections. The result looks simple: soft hair, little product, no “concrete” effect. In reality there is plenty of work behind it. A good cut must let the hair move without losing its shape completely. Lengths have to be well distributed, volume lightened in the right places and, above all, you have to follow the natural direction of the hair. In other words: we are not trying to tame the hair. We are trying to make it work for us.

Is medium-length hair finally allowed to move?

One of the most interesting trends concerns medium lengths. The Medium Flow, which we had already identified among the leading men’s cuts of 2026, evolves towards an even more natural result. The top stays longer, the sides are not necessarily shaved and the hair can follow its own movement. It works particularly well on wavy hair, but straight hair with good structure can also gain a lot more personality. It is a good alternative above all for anyone coming from years of very short fades who wants a change without going straight to long hair. The advantage? Even while it grows out, the cut still makes sense. And that is not nothing.

Haircut + Italian-style beard shave combo →

Are fringes back?

The fringe is back, but forget the neat and tidy one.

The fringe changes too. The soft bangs seen on the runways recall the nineties quite a lot: light, parted, irregular, sometimes open in the centre and sometimes left to fall freely on the forehead. No heavy, geometric line. The effect must look almost casual. It is an interesting solution especially for straight or slightly wavy hair and can work very well on a medium cut or on a mod cut, another style that is coming back strongly: soft lengths, irregular fringes and a slightly rock attitude. GQ lists it among the representative looks of 2026, along with the return of ever less rigid textures. Translation: the nineties are not done with us yet.

Should curly and wavy hair be corrected?

Curls and waves? This time they don’t need correcting.

If you have wavy or curly hair, you probably know the temptation already: cut everything short to keep it under control. This season suggests exactly the opposite. Natural movement becomes part of the cut. Curls, waves and volume are not something to eliminate but a feature to make the most of. It is a direction clearly visible in the 2026 trends too, where lengths gain space precisely to let the texture of the hair speak more. Of course this doesn’t mean letting everything grow without judgement. If volume is badly distributed, the “mushroom” risk is always around the corner. The cut has to create an invisible structure: you see the movement, but underneath there is a precise shape.

What if the tousled look isn’t for you?

Don’t worry. The other side of Autumn/Winter 2026-27 is decidedly more elegant: swept-back hair, shiny finishes and contemporary slick backs continue to have their place. GQ points to both the return of combed-back hair and sleeker, more tailored versions. So no, we are not all obliged to look like we have just walked out of an indie gig. The real trend of 2026 is probably something else: stop choosing a cut just because it is fashionable and start choosing the one that really works on your own hair.

Gift Card €100 + John Barber Gift Box →

Why does the right cut look easy?

And this is perhaps the most interesting thing about the new looks. Less visible perfection, more hidden technique. When a cut is built well you can run a hand through your hair, move it, let it dry more naturally and still keep a shape. If, on the other hand, making your cut work every morning takes twenty minutes, a hairdryer, a brush and three different products… maybe the problem is not your hair.

Want to change your look for the new season?

Come to John Barber in Milan: we start from your hair, your face and how long you actually want to spend in front of the mirror.

John Barber has three barbershops in the city centre, open every day including Sunday: book your seat.

DISCOVER ALL JOHN BARBER SERVICES